Tuesday, 6 May 2014

A Weekend at Letchworth - Part 2 of 2

I'm sure you've been waiting ever since the LAST post for this post about our weekend at Letchworth State Park - I mean I said I'd have it done the next day and all that. Well sorry to take a little longer. Its been nutty around here with launching a boat and scrubbing a boat, and all things boaty.

In any case back to our weekend getaway in upstate New York - the land of waterfalls and rocks.

 I'm going to start with a tour of the cabin we had. I do this because before our trip, it was next to impossible to figure out what to expect of a State Park as far as accommodations go. The park website lays it out pretty well, but 'rustic cabin' can be interpreted many ways.

To begin with, our cabin was in cabin loop 'C'. All of these are considered year-round rentals, but only some of them have electric heaters. The others have wood stoves. A woodstove would have had nice ambiance, but I've lived with wood heat, and I like having electric lights available. Our cabin was small, but met all our needs well. It was three rooms.

Room 1 was a "Multi-purpose room" which included kitchen, eating area, and well, not much else. here it is:


The kitchen table had 6 chairs, and there were beds and cots for 6. There was also one sitting chair in case one of the 6 people in the cabin didn't want to sit at the table. Or something. We never figured out why that chair was there.


It was nice that the kitchen included a microwave, but we didn't have anything to actually microwave in it. Knowing that the microwave was there, next time I'll bring popcorn. Also, a fridge. It isn't really camping of you get a microwave AND a fridge, is it? The only thing missing in the kitchen area was running water.



Off the multi-purpose room were the two bedrooms. Each one had a bunk bed in it plus a single cot. This made for sleeping space for 6 in the cabin. 6 lonely single people who didn't want to share a bed. I think the cabins were designed by Quakers. Also the electric heaters have noisy fans that kick in with a rattle, just before the start wafting hot air over you. Don't leave anything meltable in front of those heaters. They really heat!
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Every cabin in the loop faced the back of the next cabin. This gave the illusion of privacy. The view, however; left something to be desired. here is the view from our front door:


 Looking at our cabin, you can see that it has an accessible ramp, all the cabins in loop C do. Also there was a BBQ out front, but it was far from level, and experience has taught that out of level charcoal BBQ's tend to dump hot coals on your feet and hot dogs on the ground. Behind the BBQ and picnic table, there is a water spigot. Its that close. Running water less than 50 feet from your front door hardly counts as camping at all.


Here is the water spigot and the back of the cabin. Every time I say spigot I think of Rowan Atkinson performing a wedding. "In the name of the Father, and the Son, and the Holy Spigot." Ok back on topic. The Holy Spigot can be seen in the foreground, picnic tables are midground, cabin is background.


This is the 'other-other side" of Cabin 12. Here you will see a second picnic table and a fire pit. Letchworth State Park is very generous with their picnic tables. We are going camping at an Ontario Park this month, and I bet they will only give us one picnic table, and one place to burn things. Letchworth gave us two of each. We were impressed, but the weather was too poor to eat outside, and we had nothing to burn.

 Finally, the front of the cabin. There is a Muskoka Chair (Adirondack Chair of you are American) on the porch, but they bolted it down, which made me giggle.


So that's as good of a photo shoot of a Letchworth Cabin as you are going to find. I don't think there is much that I can add to the photos. If you are thinking of a packing list, know that what you see, is what you get quite literally. Apart from the stuff in these pics, there are no other amenities in the cabins. Flush toilets are a short walk across the campground. The cabins form a ring around the toilets - that sounds wrong, but you know what I mean. My only other comment about Loop C is that it is very remote from all the stuff in the park. If you want to see the falls or gorge or play tennis or whatever, you will be driving. Maybe bring a bike, but there aren't any bike facilities along the roads, and there are no shoulders.

There was a park in the middle of the cabins. By "was" I mean it no longer exists. Today all that is left of the park is a steel slide with notches in its belt for every child's tooth it has removed, and arm it has broken. The boys Loved that slide, and spent a lot of time in the rain sliding on it. The end of the slide is a good 2-1/2 feet off the ground. Check your insurance policy before you let your kids on the slide.

Anyways, back to our travelogue. On Sunday morning we woke up with hot heads from the heater blowing on my cranium all night (I slep on a mattress on the floor). After dousing my head in cold water to stop the sizzling, we had breakfast, packed up the cabin, cleaned it, locked the kids outside and took the pics above to convince you that we live in an idyllic world where our children can keep a camp clean.

Then we drove to Tea Table Picnic area. Cuppa liked the picnic shelter. I was impressed by it too.


 Tea Table is a flat surface where the Letchworths used to come for tea. Or something. It is one of the better picnic areas in the park. The view from Tea Table was really nice. Turkey vultures were circling on the updrafts and thermals from the canyon walls. Sadly I didn't get any really good pics of them.




The lookout had Pay-noculars just like Niagara Falls. The boys thought they were some kind of climbing apparatus. Then I put a quarter in one and Buddy thought they were the best things EVER! After that he asked for a quarter at every viewing station.




 We left teh Tea Table picnic area, and headed for lower falls. It was the only falls we had missed the day before. and we were determined not to mis the last of the three major falls in the park.

The walk to lower falls starts at this pavilion. Check out the rock stacking here. Who has time to make perfect arches out of stones and mortar. Amazing work.


After leaving the pavilion with the arches, there are exact ONE BILLION stairs you have to descend to get to lower falls. Half way down you think you will die, and you no longer want to go to the stupid falls, because really, who cares any- OMG lookit that bridge!


How in the name of allthings holy did that bridge get there. It looks like its out of "The Princess Bride" you expect teh six fingered man to step out any moment. And you go all like "My Name is Inigo Montoya, you killed my father..."

And so half a billion steps later, you find yourself descending the last of the stairs, and at the smallest, but prettiest of the falls. These falls feed into a tight and narrow canyon, and then go...


under the PRINCESS BRIDE BRIDGE!!


OK, maybe its more Shrekish, you know, where he rescues princess Fiona, and she insults him for being an ogre, and Donkey is all like "Dat Cold, Dats real Cold." and then they start making jokes about Farquad, but Fiona doesn't get it. You know that scene? Yeah, maybe the bridge is more like that.


 This rock has balls. The balls are from when organic matter got churned around in the river, and then sediment built up on it. There's a thing about rock balls at the visitor's center.

Now the thing about the Princess Fiona/Buttercup bridge and the billion steps is that now that you've been lured into the honey pot, you have to go back from whence you came or perish forever ... UP the billion steps you go. And if you are 3 (or 40-ish) that trip is onerous. I found it helpful to sword fight invisible enemies and repeat "My name is Inigo Montoya. You killed my father. Prepare to die."



At the top of all the stairs there is another spot where there was a park. And another slide that the lawyers love. Because we are good parents, we allowed our children to risk their lives on the slide while we photographed them.


And example of a sliding casualty. Cuppa fell off the bottom rung of the ladder and rolled around in the wood chips. He was too tired to get up.


Then with help from Momma, he got his slide on!


So some takeaways from camping in The States:

1. If you eat out once, you will have leftovers for a week. You will not need to bring any other food since the serving sizes are ridiculously huge everywhere.
2.The cabins are really well equipped for everything except sleeping. If we did this again, I would bring an air mattress rather than sleep on the plastic mattresses and steel frames.
3. At the border they will search your car for firewood and fresh foods if you say you are camping. packaged foods were OK for us to bring into USA. Consider bringing money and stopping at a Piggly Wiggly or something. I don't really know what the grocery stores in Buffalo are called.
4. Bring an activity for the kids. If we weren't on the trails or outside the kids went batty in the small space of the cottage, and crayons were only interesting for a very short time. The slide of death held endless appeal though.
5. Leave your schedule and ideas at home and go with the flow. When hiking tired us out we went antiquing in nearby Mount Morris. It was fun, but totally unplanned.

On the way home we got a bottle of Vodka at the duty free. It helped me write this post. I wonder if it will be as witty in the morning...

Friday, 2 May 2014

A Weekend at Letchworth - Part 1 of 2


Letchworth State in upstate New York is a bit of a hidden gem. We had never heard of it until I started researching places that were "weather proof" for an April getaway. Apparently it is a haven for rock-hounding, ballooning, romantic weekends, antique hunting, rafting, and camping, and its no farther from home for us than Algonquin Park where we go quite regularly. According to Google Maps, Letchworth is 3-1/2 hours from the east side of Toronto. Travelling with our family it took 5 hours, including pee breaks and dinner at Denny's.



We arrived at Letchworth Park in a light, cold rain at about 9:30 PM with two sleeping boys on a Friday night. It was very dark. The neighbour's cabin had the door open and music playing, but they obeyed the 10:00 PM park curfew, and the boys never woke up. I had called before leaving home to let the rangers know we would be arriving late, and they unlocked the cabin for us, turned on the heat, and left the key on the table. When we arrived, everything was warm and snug, waiting for us.

Somehow we managed to plan this trip for the rainiest weekend in April, but at least it didn't snow (there's a consolation!!) and the weather only mattered in the evening when the boys got a little bored and cranky. But most of the time, everyone was happy to be on a weekend vacation. We woke up on Saturday morning, made instant Oatmeal, and started the day...


Our first order of business was to get checked in, so we drove from our cabins down to the park visitor's centre. There they told us we had to check in at the campers office, but it was closed. They would arrange to have someone there for us at 1:00 if we could make it by then. We said we would, and got a free map, and some suggestions on trails worth hiking and sights worth seeing.


The ladies suggested some walks, but warned that there were many steps, and the old limestone was often slick and uneven. It would be very tiring. We shrugged it off since we have hiked with boys before and went on our merry way. Soon we saw what they meant. Our first destination, a short drive away was the combined hike up to High Falls, then an about face and retracing our steps down to Middle Falls. After Middle Falls we could continue walking along the gorge to Lower falls, or head back to the car and drive the Lower Falls. Of course we wouldn't drive - we had hiked 5 and 7 km trails in Algonquin with the boys, this stuff would be a cakewalk!



We reached the base of High Falls, and they were beautiful. A railway bridge travels way up over High falls. It was once a wooden railway bridge here, but the bridge burnt down, and this steel one replaced it. I imagine the wooden bridge would have been much nicer.


 A beautiful stone walkway with stone steps winds itself up the cliff face along the falls here, and very soon we found ourselves ascending the steps and winding our way to the top of the falls, looking for better views.

Also, Buddy stood still long enough for me to get a decent picture of him. This is a rarity. I'll call it our Letchworth miracle.


About 1/3 of the way up the stone steps a little footbridge crosses a wee stream. It was very picturesque, so I played photographer and took about a billion underexposed, over exposed, and badly framed pictures. These three turned out really well... I can't decide whether I prefer the rocks in the foreground, being able to see the path around bridge, or the effect of the cascade best. Which is your favourite?






From the top the view was lovely, but damp. In an absolutely unprecedented event, Buddy stood still long enough for a SECOND photo. Letchworth truly is a magical place.



Everywhere you go in this park, there are miles and miles of stone walls, walkways, bridges, and so on. As we walked, one opportunity after next came up for great photos. Of course we were there in shoulder season without the crowds, but one things green out and the flowers begin to bloom, I imagine this place must be bursting with beauty. I thought this viewing platform looked like something that came from a fairy tale. Momma thought it was a good spot for a family photo.



Apparently even the Letchworth miracles can't fix our family poses. Between high falls and middle falls, Buddy got a rock in his shoe. Also this is a THIRD photo of Buddy sitting still! If you haven't already checked, go see how the planets are aligned!!


I love the tongue sticking out - and that he's got his shoes on the wrong feet. I am an evil parent. By the way, Buddy is VERY proud of those Montreal Canadiens track pants.

Below is Middle Falls. Middle falls is a sheet cascade - like a miniature Niagara Falls, but its tricky to photograph because the falls are so close to the path. In fact the path and lookout were wet and muddy from all the mist off the falls. The falls has eaten out a chunk of the valley wall on the north side of the gorge here and you actually feel like you will be sucked down into the canyon by the water. A better photographer might be able to capture that feeling, but I couldn't get it right.


Just past the falls, there is a Narnia lamp post. We kept a lookout for Mr. Tumnus. He was no-place to be seen. Everywhere in the park, there were the low stone walls. And I mean everywhere! They didn't really offer much protection from folks going over and into the canyon, but they did set a boundary for the boys, which was a good thing. In my mind all I could think of was the amount of work it must have been to cart it all up from the riverbed, and then lay all that stone.


Right next to middle Falls is the Letchworth Estate home. The story goes that Mr. Letchworth first saw the canyon and valley on a train trip, and fell in love with the place. He bought the gorge outright and built his estate (and all those stone walls and walkways) then willed the whole thing as a park to the state. He names his house "Glen Iris" after the rainbow over the falls. Today the house is rented out as "The Glen Iris Inn". You can find the estate info here. It is quite lovely, but we didn't linger here for long.


Just down the road from the Glen Iris is this bridge. It is also lovely. Look at all those stones. My back hurts just thinking about placing them all.


Near the bridge the pathway squeezes into a nice set of stone steps. I told the boys to sit for a picture, and then started firing away while playing with shutter speeds and aperture settings and trying to figure out what would look OK and what would look awesome.


Eventually they got bored. I kindof like the bored pictures better than when they were posing for me. Also today Cuppa wore the binoculars. I'm not sure what he was trying to see. If you are counting, this is Letchworth miracle #4!!!


Maybe it was this...


Or this...


In that photo above, you can see down the canyon to Middle Falls, with high falls and the train bridge way in the background. We had walked a long way, and we still weren't at Lower Falls. All along the way was stairs going up and down as the cliffs followed the river. My feet were starting to hurt. The boys got out the maps to look for a short cut.


In case you are wondering, there was no short cut. The stone steps had taken their toll. Momma was ready to turn back, I was tired, the boys were pooped. We turned back and headed to the car. We weren't the hardy hiker we had thought.

Here's one last pic of the Narnia lamp at Middle Falls. Buddy photobombed the one good pic I got of this - We'll call it a 5th Letchworth miracle!


Watch this space tomorrow for Day 2 of our Letchworth State Park weekend.